Mont Ventoux is a world famous climb through its inclusion in the Tour de France. There are three roads that climb up to the summit; yet there is also a lesser known gravel route that begins near the town of Bédoin. This route avoids the fast traffic and aggressive road cyclists.
Mont Ventoux lies in Provence; a good days travel from almost everywhere. The Mediterranean, Paris, Lyon and the AIps all seem so far away when this famous mountain looms on the horizon. In September 2023, I finally had the chance to climb this gravel route; in between meeting a friend in Lyon and travelling to the Italian Alps. Which in turn caused me to make a dangerous decision. I had only allowed two days in my schedule to climb Mont Ventoux. Storms can roll across the summit of Mont Ventoux even in midsummer when the valley floor is baking hot. What started as a refreshing challenge turned into a brutal battle of endurance against the weather.
Getting to the gravel
There are many hotels, apartments and campsites around Mont Ventoux to cater for the thousands of cyclists drawn to the area. Using Google reviews; I decided to stay at: http://www.camping-ventoux.fr/. Which turned about to be a good choice; with its generous pitch sizes, clean facilities, Wi-Fi, welcoming staff and brilliant restaurant. As always make a little effort to speak French and enjoy the pool and sunsets from the restaurant terrace.
Studying the weather forecast for the two days I had in Bédoin; I saw that both were not good. With rain and wind expected on the summit of Mont Ventoux. Therefore I naturally chose the first day to summit; so I still had a second chance if I had to turnaround. As I cycled through the streets of Bédoin early the next morning I noticed a long line of sombre looking road cyclists with more arriving in every car. I have never understood the coldness of road cyclists; I try to smile and wish everyone a good day?
It was hard to navigate to start of the gravel climb as there are very few online maps of this route. In the photo above; if you take the Chalet Reynaud road out of town and turn left before the ‘Laverie‘ you will be on the right route. Cycle past vineyards along the Chemin de la Montage. Then look for signs to the: ‘Domaine de Bélézy’ campsite. After this just keep cycling up through the vineyards. After a while you will reach a wide gravelled road called: ‘Piste des Graviers Blancs‘; which begins to climb via a series of hairpin bends.
Grades of Gravel
After you have passed the red on white ‘Graviers Blancs’ road sign and climbed a couple of hairpin bends; the gradients relax and the views open up. Climbing steadily for a few miles; you see the upper reaches of Mont Ventoux looming in front of you like a great unavoidable iceberg. Yet to the right you can look back over the rolling hills of Provence that are lit by the ever warming rising sun. Here, midweek, in late September; I was completely alone for over an hour before I reached the next tarmac road. For this sole reason; I would really recommend this route to just relax and enjoy the beauty of Provence. Forget Strava times and personal best records; just be grateful to be here, surrounded by nature and to simply to be alive.
In places the gravel has not been compacted because of irregular traffic. So I had to walk my bike over short unrideable sections. After climbing for a while to the ridge on your left; you will come to a wide crossroads. Turn almost back on yourself to the left; which is shown in the photo above. From here to the road; the track is a lot smoother and you can increase your speed.
Reaching the road
So before you know it; you will soon arrive back to civilization at this hairpin bend. Here you do not need to check the directions; for we all know the only way is up! Enjoy this smooth road whilst you are sheltered by the trees on either side. In colder days from the: wind and rain and on warmer days; the: wind and sun!
Into the storm
As I neared the road; I had to cycle around a ridge towards the north. As I turned the corner the threatening storm clouds were now descending in front of me. I kept listening for distant thunder whilst watching the direction of the clouds. I thought I could either descend down the mountain away from a thunderstorm or find a safe shelter to let the storm pass over me.
Yet the clouds seemed to gently swirl around the trees, rocks and me. I could hear only silence above me. I felt like I was in a fairy tale; expecting to see nymphs and sprites dancing out from the trees to welcome the rain. Relaxed and feeling strong; I continued on, up and into the storm.
When I got on the road; I turned on my rear red flashing light for safety. I use a ‘Lezyne Lecto Drive’ which I really recommend for its powerful strobing light mode. Other fitter and younger cyclists passed me with a scowl. Maybe they were jealous of my light or just not enjoying the ride? Dressed completely in black without lights they were soon dangerously hidden in mist before me.
A desperate descent
Although, the wind chill soon brought the temperature to around freezing point. As I was climbing; the exercise had kept me warm. Yet as soon as I stopped climbing; my body temperature dropped and I start shivering uncontrollably. I put on a an extra windbreaker and jersey; yet these made little difference against the brutal gale force winds. Reaching the meteorological station on the summit; I could only see the walls at its base! No other cyclists or tourists were here; or I simply could not see them in the mist.
It was here I got disorientated due to the lack of visibility. So instead of passing directly over the summit towards Chalet Reynard. I ended up riding back to where I left the road and then cycling back past a point I had struggled to ten minutes earlier.
Now I knew I was on the right road. I descended as fast as I could with frozen fingers covering the brake levers. It was a paradox; in that I could only warm up by reaching lower altitudes but to get there I had to descend as quickly as I could into the freezing wind. I span my legs in a low gear just to keep the blood flowing and held my breath to keep any warmth within for as long as possible. It was brutal; yet with a strong but relaxed mindset I soldiered on. At times I would hallucinate about sun baked beaches and roaring log fires. I dreamt of being with a beautiful French lady to keep me warm too. My whole body was in pain; yet I could see past it. I was close to the sublime and felt very much alive.
Returning to the warmth of Provence
Passing through Chalet Reynard there is a large café that normally caters to hordes of sullen looking road cyclists. Yet today it was empty except for a few locals sheltering from the storm. As I rode past they nodded in acknowledgement. I was a tourist that had the strength to brave the storm. Yet these locals respect the mountain and knew when to wait out the storm.
Descending further and off the summit ridgeline; I turned south and out of the wind. Within a few metres the temperature rose at least ten degrees Celsius! Returning to the forests of the lower slopes; I was now on a hot and humid road. By the time I reached the campsite in Bédoin; the temperature was back to around 25 degrees Celsius! After taking my time to shower my sore and frozen muscles; I sat down with a welcoming warm beer. I laughed out loud to myself at my experience. Then realised the beauty of life and being in nature.
If you have time; wait for a warm sunny day to enjoy the views. Yet Mont Ventoux is a high with summit conditions that can be life threatening. So come and enjoy and relax in Provence. Yet respect the mountain and our place in nature. Peace.
For more routes in Provence and France; please click here: Routes in France. My personal favourite is the: Route de Les Cretes.
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