A classic Italian mountain pass
Between the great Po plain of northern Italy and the mountainous border with France; the valleys spread out like great branches on a horizontal plain. Dividing each valley are numerous ridgelines that gradually climb; to stand like 1,000 metre walls metres between each valley floor. So to avoid an almost 50 mile detour around the ridge; those old ingenious Romans built the Colle di Sampeyre.
These days a quiet pass linking the town of Sampeyre and the smaller villages of the Maira Valley to the south. It makes for a brilliant day out on the bike. With breath-taking gradients and views of the surrounding mountains. If you can wait until a quieter autumn day; you may be lucky and find yourself all alone with mother nature.
Cool and shaded start
I was lucky to be staying on a campsite at the very base of the Colle di Sampeyre. Although, the owners could not speak English I was made to feel very welcome. Furthermore, the facilities are new and kept clean. I would advise to book ahead in high season; to find out more; click here: https://www.campingvalvaraita.it/home.asp.
There are also other campsites and hotels in Sampeyre and the city of Cuneo is not too far away. However, I would advise against cycling up the main road in the valley; for there are many blind corners and dangerously impatient drivers. For a relaxing ride; please start from Sampeyre.
After leaving Sampeyre; you are gently introduced to the Colle by mother nature. The first few kilometres are at a gentle gradient with cooling shade provided by a lush green canopy of trees. Starting early in the day; the cool air helps you to find your rhythm as you begin to climb.
Into the Alpine meadows
Before too soon; the tree cover begins to divide as you arrive to alpine meadows. Looking down into the valley you are rewarded with views of Sampeyre, villages on the far side with their grandiose church spires, distant peaks and the big blue sky above.
Here, some of the gradients are very steep; yet they do not last for long. Riding alone and relaxed; I stopped to catch my breath when ever I felt the need. Unlike some, I was not in an imaginary race with my shadow or a number on Strava; I was here to enjoy the ride.
With each turn new vistas opened up across the valley. With shaded sections on a deserted autumn road; I was relaxing more and more. As well as the shade; the sun was beginning to lose its strength in October. It felt like I was in an equinox of temperatures; between the brutal heat of summer and merciless chill of winter.
I passed numerous springs on this middle section of the Colle di Sampeyre. I always use iodine tablets in water I find out in nature. Yet this water looked safe enough anyway and a lot more healthy than any energy drink!
Upper slopes
After a thrilling section of hairpins with only small concrete bollards protecting you from a precipice. You will pass through a right-hand hairpin and see the view in the photo above. The Colle di Sampeyre is fairly close now in distance. Yet you still have to gain enough altitude to reach the ridgeline you can see on the horizon. Therefore, whilst my legs endured the pain of steeper gradients; I tried to focus on the beautiful alpine meadows to my left.
I peddled on up through the last remaining forest to the treeline, up through the thinning air and up through a pain barrier. Sometimes stopping every few hundred metres to catch my breath; I rode on. Then as if by magic; from behind a tree the horizon began to drop and I could look down on the surrounding mountain tops.
Reaching the summit and beyond
Cresting the last rise; the obligatory colle marker appeared on my right along with numerous cars and bikes. Beyond, I could see the majestic peak of Monviso across the Pellice Valley. To the south the road descended gently in to the Maira Valley. Beneath a beautiful autumn sun; the mountains to the south appeared blue. Rolling away like great waves on a restless ocean.
To the west; the ridge line climbed to the mountains that make a natural border between Italy and France. Then to the east; the ridge rolled down to the mighty River Po plain. Running along this ridge; all the way to the city of Cuneo is an old military road called the Strada dei Cannoni. Built to bring men and supplies in yet another long gone pointless war. It now serves as a brilliant way to enjoy this wonderful landscape.
I rode for a short distance along the Strada dei Cannoni; yet turned back at the top of a steep descent. For I knew a long descent lay ahead back down to Sampeyre. I was truly relaxed on a perfect calm autumn day in the high Italian Alps. Sitting on the long grass for at least half an hour; I drifted off into a daydream. I think I dreamt of forever being in such a beautiful places as this.
The descent back to Sampeyre was long and cold. The jersey and down jacket I had packed barely kept me warm. Yet that night after a delicious pizza from http://www.mangiuma.it/f_vallata.php?lg=it. I sat by my campervan with a strong red beer and watched the stars come out in the heavens above. Relaxed and grateful for another beautiful day in mother nature.
I hope you too can come and enjoy this wonderful place.
If you want to read about more of my adventures in Italy; then click here: Routes in Italy
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